When shopping for kitchen appliances before an old renovation, the saleswoman touted the benefit of convection in an electric oven. To ensure even cooking when cooking two sheet pans of cookies, recipes recommend swapping the upper and lower racks and rotating the pans midway through cooking. Not necessary with this oven, the saleswoman noted; just switch on convection and all the cookies reach equal perfection.
Using my M&M Cookies recipe, I decided to test put the theory to the test. Though I normally cook only one tray at a time, I still rotate it 180° midway through. I cooked one batch the usual way at 375 °F for 10 minutes. For the next batch, I decreased the temperature to 350 °F (a 25° F decrease is typically recommended when switching to convection). I typically rest my cookies on the sheet pan for about 3 minutes after they come out of the oven, to finish baking without drying out.
The non-convection version came out exactly as expected, with a slightly crispy crust, but a soft interior, just like the family demands.
The convection batch was a different story. The cookies spread considerably less and had an over-toasted crust. Even at the lower temperature, the hot air caused the outside to set and excessively brown before the insides had properly cooked.
It’s possible that an even lower temperature would have helped, but my experience is that convection is best reserved for foods where the interior would overcook before the outside reached it’s appropriate level of crustiness, and where a drying effect is particularly desirable. This is great for some meat dishes or for oven fries. For cookies, however, I have yet to see an improvement.
Although most people don’t place English muffins in a category of haute cuisine, they are a workhorse that can meet a number of breakfast tastes. They were a rare sight at our breakfast table, but since my family enjoys various bread and egg combinations with increasing regularity, their absence became increasingly striking. I hoped I could find a recipe that exceeded the occasional store-bought option.
I tried Stella Parks’ No-Kneed English Muffins, use whole wheat for 1/3 of the flour and a healthy dose of honey. Aside from the milk, it’s a lean dough that avoids the weight of butter that I find unpleasant in the morning. I preferred this version to the richer, all-white version from Bravetart. Both recipes are create a similar bread dough that is loosely shaped into relative-round blobs that are griddled after an overnight rest. The texture was a contrast to the loftier texture of Peter Reinhart’s version from Artisan Breads Every Day which create a batter that is cooked in metal rings. Reinhart’s version is undoubtedly cleaner looking, but missed the rustic appeal of Parks’ whole wheat version.
After a long hiatus, I recently returned to Parks’ recipe, this time using home-ground whole wheat flour and a 80 grams of a sourdough starter in place of 40 g each of the white flour and milk. I typically gave the muffins an overnight rest prior to griddling, but Parks’ allows for up to 42 hours, so I waited an extra day. For a less-greasy profile, I skipped the butter she called for on the griddle, and just lightly oiled the griddle so the muffins wouldn’t risk sticking (this also reduced the near-burning I had occasionally experienced from the added honey). The results were a hit with the whole family when served as egg sandwiches. The muffins are slightly sweet, but not overly so, and have a great texture.
One of the annoyances with recipes that use either egg yolks or whites instead of whole eggs is that I have to figure out a use for the leftover parts or feel guilty about throwing perfectly usable egg. Since I don’t mind eating egg white omelettes, it’s easier if it’s an yolk-heavy recipe. If a recipe deviates from a traditional whole-egg path to use an egg part, it had better deliver something worthwhile in exchange.
I have a tried-and-true chocolate chip cookie recipe (linked version uses M&Ms, but chips can be swapped in) that appears to be universally well-liked (at least by my cookie eating relatives), but I was intrigued by the egg-yolk version from Violet Bakery. I scaled the recipe down by a third since I was experimenting, but otherwise kept to the original. The dough came together easily and quickly, and was easy to scoop without first being chilled. As instructed, I froze the dough balls before putting them to use. Since my family prefers smaller cookies, I used a 2-teaspoon scoop (#60) instead of a more standard 1.5 tablespoon (#40). To compensate for this, I cooked them at 375° F instead of the prescribed 355 °F.
I also knew I needed to cook them less. The instructions state to underbake them and let them finish cooking on the hot cookie sheet, which is fairly standard as far as these cookies go. I baked the first batch for about 13 minutes, which left them with a golden crust after resting (as pictured above), but the family felt they were a bit too crispy. For subsequent batches, I went down to 11, then 10 minutes. This left the cookies pale, but with a superior texture. Despite the richness of the yolks, they surprisingly tasted drier than my traditional whole-egg cookies. An interesting variation, but ultimately the family and I preferred our standard recipe.
There’s a simplicity to sugar cookies that is undeniably appealing. They are, by design, not a fancy dessert, but a clean-tasting, universally acceptable snack. Once you accept their limitations, you can enjoy them for what they are. They are also a perfect vehicle for decorating. The traditional cookie form can run the risk of becoming dry, so the idea of a bar form intrigued me. Cookie bars blur the line between cookies and brownies, avoiding the overt fudginess of the latter while adding sufficient thickness to avoid desiccation.
I was intrigued by the 5-star rating of the New York Times’ recipe, despite the fact that many of the actual comments were critical. The biggest frustration readers seemed to face was underbaking, despite the dire warning of the recipe not to overbake. I was curious about the non-traditional use of cream cheese in place of some of the butter. I find use of other sources of fats (such as yogurt, sour cream, or cream cheese) keep desserts moist without becoming too buttery.
I made half the recipe, which was plenty for us, but the use of half an egg can be challenging for some, so feel free to double and use a 13” x 9” pan instead of an 8” x 8”. As long as the butter and cream cheese are close to room temperature, thehe recipe comes together quickly and easily. Some find the thick batter to be hard to spread, but with some patience and either an offset or a silicone spatula, it’s not too difficult. Be sure to let the bars cool completely before frosting, just as you would with a cake. Don’t be fooled by the appearance: it’s decidedly a cookie bar and not a cake. It lives up to the sugar cookie name: a simple sweetness, a touch of butteriness, and a slight tang from the cream cheese in the dough and lemon in the frosting. A touch of almond extract, used by some of the commenters, could add a bit of sophistication for adults, but is not strictly needed. I cooked the bars for 32 minutes instead of the recommended 20-25. This ended up being perfect – the edges were browned and the top had just a hint of gold.
A classic sugar cookie flavor converted to a bar, adapted from the New York Times
112 g unsalted butter, at room temperature
112 g cream cheese, at room temperature
175 g all purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
150 g sugar
1/2 large egg
1 tsp vanilla extract
42 g unsalted butter, at room temperature
120 g powdered sugar, sifted
10 g heavy cream (or milk)
1/2 teaspoon lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
pinch of salt
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Spray an 8×8″ pan with cooking spray and line with parchment.
Using a stand mixer with a paddle or a hand mixer, beat the butter and cream cheese together.
Add the salt and sugar and beat until smooth a bit fluffy.
Add the egg and vanilla and beat until fully incorporated.
Slowly mix in the flour until no dry flour remains.
Spread the thick batter evenly into the pan (e.g. with a silicone spatula), being sure to reach the edges.
Bake for 30-35 minutes until the cookies start to pull away from the pan, the edges are brown, and the top is a pale gold.
Cool the cookies in the pan until room temperature, then move to a wire rack if you used a parchment sling (or leave in the pan).
In a stand mixer or a bowl with a handheld mixer, beat the butter and slowly add in sifted powdered sugar until fully incorporated, then add in the milk or cream, lemon juice, and vanilla and beat until smooth. Add the food coloring and beat until evenly distributed.
Use a rubber spatula to transfer the frosting to the top of the bars spread evenly. Decorate with sprinkles or sparkling sugar, then cut into bars.
Just like the half-moon cookies I pursued in an attempt to recreate childhood favorites, chocolate mint brownies were an obvious addition. I’m not sure why the combination of rich chocolate and the sharp taste of peppermint go so well together, but it’s an undeniably appealing combination. Surprisingly, good recipes can be somewhat tricky to find. I eventually settled on the Classic Mint Chocolate Brownies from Sally’s Baking Addiction. They looked like the real deal: a burst of mint green frosting sandwiched between a rich brownie below and a smooth ganache above.
As with most dessert recipes in my home, particularly those that are unproven, I look to half the recipe. Brownie recipes can range from simple to finicky, and these are on the easier end the spectrum. Chocolate and butter are melted together (I used my go-to Ghiradelli 60% for the chocolate) and cooled slightly. Sugars are added in, followed by eggs, vanilla, and a mixture of salt, flour, and cocoa. The instructions said to bake for about 35 minutes, but mine were done a bit earlier. The brownies had started to pull away from the edges, and the middle offered some resistance when pressed with a finger (Stella Parks likes to remark it should feel like pressing on your forearm). Some reviewers complained of a thick crust on top, which I suspect was due to overbaking.
After cooling the brownies, the mint frosting is made from a mixture of butter, powdered sugar, and milk, with a peppermint extract and food coloring added at the end. After applying the frosting, the whole brownie block is refrigerated for 1-4 hours.
The ganache is then made from a mixture of butter and chocolate heated together, poured and smoothed over the mint later, then refrigerated again for several hours.
While the repeat refrigeration steps made for a long prep time, the actual creation of the brownies was not particularly laborious. The flavors seemed on point – the brownie layer was densely fudgy, and the mint frosting added the appropriate amount of brightness. However, the texture of the brownie was a bit too fudgy for my tastes. Sally recommends keeping the brownies in the refrigerator, and I can see why. These come across more like mint-frosted fudge rather than the more substantial brownie than I was expecting. Perhaps adding more flour would help the consistency and avoid the need for constant refrigeration. This didn’t stop the kids from making quick work of them, and it will certainly satisfy the desire to recreate a favorite treat.
A fudgy chocolate brownie topped with mint frosting and chocolate ganache, adapted from Sally's Baking Addiction
112 g unsalted butter
112 g bittersweet chocolate (chopped)
150 g sugar
50 g light brown sugar
2 large eggs at room temperature
5 g vanilla extract
1/4 tsp salt
50 g all-purpose flour (increased from original)
10 g cocoa powder (I used Dutch-processed)
56 g unsalted butter, at room temperature
120 g powdered sugar, sifted
15 g milk
1/2 tsp peppermint extract
green food coloring
56 g unsalted butter
112 g bittersweet chocolate (e.g. Ghiradelli 60%)
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Spray an 8×8″ pan with cooking spray and line with parchment.
Whisk together flour, salt, and cocoa powder (sifting the cocoa powder if needed).
In a small saucepan over low heat, melt the butter then add in the chopped chocolate and whisk until smooth. Pour into a bowl to cool for a few minutes.
Add in the sugars and whisk until smooth.
Add the eggs one at a time, whisking in each until fully incorporated.
Whisk in the vanilla, then the flour mixture.
Pour batter into the pan and bake for 30-35 minutes until the brownies start to pull away from the edges and the center feels a little firm.
Cool the brownies in the pan until room temperature, then move to a wire rack.
In a stand mixer or a large bowl with a handheld mixer, beat the butter and slowly add in sifted powdered sugar until fully incorporated, then add in the milk and beat until smooth. Add in the peppermint extract and food coloring.
Use a rubber spatula to transfer the frosting to the top of the brownies and smooth. Refrigerate for at least an hour to set the frosting.
Melt the butter for the chocolate ganache, then add in the chopped chocolate and whisk until smooth. Pour over the chilled brownies, smooth with a spatula, then return to the fridge for at least an hour prior to cutting into individual brownies.
Most people are familiar with whole wheat bread. Many have strong opinions. But few are familiar with a middle path between white flour and wheat: bolted wheat.
White flour is ground wheat with the bran and germ filtered out. May family generally prefers the clean, slightly sweet taste of white bread to the heartier, slightly bitter taste of whole wheat. Even when I dial back the whole wheat content to 20%, some family members have been known to turn up their nose. Adding sufficient sugar can help, but defeats the theoretical health benefits.
Bolted wheat is whole wheat where some bran is filtered out, but the germ remains. When ground with home mill like the Mockmill, a quick sift with a fine sifter (e.g. 40 mesh) will trap some of the coarse bran. This tempers some of the potential bitterness and also helps the bread rise. Bolted wheat flour can also be purchased online.
I have been using a 20% bolted wheat recipe (with bread flour for the remaining 80%) several times with no disparaging glances from family members. It adds a slightly browner hue and a more complex taste without challenging less adventurous palates. I grind my wheat right into the sifter resting on a sheet of parchment paper. I tap the sides of the sifter until all but the large bran particles remain, and use the parchment to add the sifted flour to the white flour.
I don’t waste the bran, but rather use it to line the banneton cloth to prevent sticking and sprinkle the remainder on top (which will become the bottom when it goes into the clay baker) to enhance the crust.
After giving up on pure sourdough-leavened bagels, I resumed my making usual bagels using a hybrid of commercial yeast and sourdough starter. Driven to expand my bagel repertoire, I recalled my son’s fondness for chocolate chip bagels, but thought I could take it to the next level. After my chocolate chocolate chip sourdough bread had been well received, it seemed natural to give my bagels the same treatment.
My standard bagel recipe already included some sourdough starter, so I started by replacing 20 g of the flour with cocoa powder, and bumping up the sugar from 15 to 90 g. I also thought regular bread flour, instead of high-gluten flour, would be fine for this recipe. I made the yukone, combined the dry ingredients, then processed everything together in the food processor. Once the dough was formed, I worked in the chocolate chips with a brief kneed, then shaped the bagels into balls.
I let the dough balls rest for 15 minutes, then shaped into bagels, and refrigerated for 36 hours.
Despite the prolonged rest time, when I went to boil the bagels I found that they didn’t float. I decided to do an experiment – I boiled half the bagels and left half unboiled. The boiled bagels were obviously darker than the unboiled, but otherwise didn’t look all that different.
I baked the bagels, sure that the boiling would have some lasting effect. To my surprise, the baked bagels looked almost identical regardless of whether they had been boiled first or not. If I looked closely, the unboiled bagels had a slightly more matte finish, but otherwise there was not much difference. The crust felt pretty similar as well. There was a slight difference in the shape however – the boiled bagels rose a little more vertically, while the unboiled were slightly wider.
I wondered if my bagels were underproofed because I had use less than my customary amount of yeast, so I repeated the experiment with a full 4 g of yeast and this time the bagels had no problem floating. However, the poaching water darkened from chocolate chips melting on the surface and I realized that, given the lack of difference I had noticed earlier, it may not be worth boiling these bagels. Unlike regular bagels where the classic chew and crust are key components, this is a totally different beast (and certainly not adherent to any sort of historical precedent.
170 g cold water
100 g bread flour
280 g bread flour
20 g cocoa powder
90 g sugar
9 g salt
4 g instant yeast
60 g water
100 g 100% hydration sourdough starter
90 g chocolate chips
In a skillet or saucepan, mix the ingredients for the yukone until no dry flour remains and stir with a rubber spatula over medium heat until the mixture takes on a mashed-potato like appearance. Transfer to a bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and allow to cool.
Add the water and starter to the yukone. If you’re not using a starter, increase the water and flour in the main recipe by 50 g each.
Combine the dry ingredients in the bowl of a food processor and pulse several times to combine.
Add the contents of the yukone bowl into the food processor.
Process for 90 seconds.
Turn the dough onto the counter (it will be slightly sticky), and kneed in the chocolate chips. It may take a little work to get them evenly distributed. If the dough is warm, allow it to cool slightly in a covered bowl before adding the chocolate chips, or they may melt.
Divide the dough into 8-10 equally sized dough balls and roll them in circles on the counter using an inverted, cupped hand until they are smooth and have no creases.
Transfer the balls to a baking sheet lined with parchment coated lightly with spray oil and cover with plastic wrap for 15 minutes.
Poke a hole in the middle of each ball with your thumb and gently stretch each ball into a bagel-like shake.
Cover the bagels with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 24-36 hours.
After the bagels have rested in the fridge, preheat the oven to 425 degrees and bake the bagels for 15-20 minutes, depending on desired crustiness. Depending on your oven, you may need to bake longer if you like a really crusty bagel.
Allow the bagels to cool completely before slicing (particularly important given the chocolate chips.
After years of trying different bagel recipies, Stella Parks’ bagels from Serious Eats proved to be the best of the bunch. It produced reliably flavorful bagels with a crisp crust and chewy texture. I modified the recipe by simplifying the yukone step, switching to high-gluten flour, and adding a sourdough starter discard for some more flavor. As I’ve maintained an active starter at room temperature, I’ve wondered about using this for leavening my bagels.
Realizing that a home starter will leaven more slowly than commercial yeast, I took a few precautions for my first experiment. My base recipe was identical to the original, but omitted the yeast. I stacked the deck by letting the shaped bagels sit for an additional 15 minutes prior to refrigerating, and left the bagels in the refrigerator for 36 hours rather than the customary 24. As my pot of malt-syrup infused water boiled vigorously, I ready myself for preparing the best bagels I had every tasted. Instead, I was left feeling very similar to what my bagels must have felt as the sank in the water instead of happily floating, a sure sign that the leavening had gone poorly. With some coaxing, they eventually rose, but they looked like I felt: deflated.
I baked them anyway. The most generous term I could use would be “acceptable”. They were still better than many commercial bagels, and the flavor was robust and unique. However, they were far denser than they should have been.
I continued making efforts over the subsequent days, trying various techniques to improve the results: I added longer room temperature proofs, including up to 12 hours, and even did a controlled experiment, with half the batch at room temperature for 12 hours followed by 12 hours in the refrigerator, and half the other way around (a classic switch study). Bottom line: they were no different. Both rose somewhat, but failed to float on the initial drop into the water bath. I was left with the same textural problems.
Other failed attempts included adding extra starter discard from my refrigerated stock, leaving out the yukone altogether, and other (ahem) half-baked ideas.
Eventually, I broke down and asked myself why I was trying to be such a purist. After all, I was well stocked with commercial yeast, and the sourdough police have no jurisdiction over my kitchen. I pulled the trigger on a hybrid: I used my original sourdough-enhanced bagel recipe, but replaced the leftover starter with fresh, active starter, and cut the commercial yeast quantity in half.
The difference was undeniable. Right out of the fridge, the bagels were plumper, had better structure, and looked like they were ready to fulfill their destiny. They immediately floated buoyantly in the water bath, and maintained a robust shape as they baked perfection in the oven. The sourdough added a depth of flavor, while the commercial yeast ensured they didn’t fall flat. I suspect I can cut the commercial yeast further, but that is for another day.
Having had a steady stream of good outcomes with plain white sourdough bread, I wondered about a sweeter version that might be a breakfast treat or dessert. Strangely, there aren’t a lot of these recipes out there. Many recipes adapt traditional sweets (e.g. cakes, quick breads, muffins, etc.) to use small amounts of leftover starter, but there’s a dearth of true sweetened breads. Part of the appeal of the lean doughs typically used for sourdough baking is the surprisingly moist and creamy crumb that can be obtained without butter, oil, or eggs.
I wanted to preserve this aspect of sourdough while introducing a sweet element, so I started with a standard sourdough base and added cocoa powder in place of some of the flour, sugar to add a bit of sweetness and counteract the bitterness of the cocoa powder, and chocolate chips because, well, chocolate.
I replaced 5% of the flour with cocoa powder, and used 15% sugar, ~74% hydration, 2.5% salt, and 20% chocolate. The starter was 20% of the total flour/cocoa powder weight. Despite this being my first attempt, the dough looked good. I put it through my usual sourdough regimen of stretching and folding, then rested overnight. I baked at 450 °F in a pre-heated Dutch oven for 30 minutes, the first 20 minutes of which I kept the cover on.
The results were great. The bread itself was mildly sweet, but the chocolate chips added a great burst of creamy sweetness and a textural element. This recipe could easily be adapted to add other mix-ins like nuts.
In the mad dash to hoard flour (and, to be honest, to stuff my virtual shopping cart sufficiently to earn free shipping), I ended up with a two pound bag of buckwheat flour courtesy of King Arthur Flour. I had been curious about the nutty taste so fondly described by many on the internet, but have learned to be dubious as many reviews are clouded by perceptions of “healthfulness” or the context of gluten-free requirements. My only experience with buckwheat had been in the form of soba noodles, and I didn’t have such a strong memory that I knew what to expect.
Since I’ve been regularly producing white sourdough batards with predictable success, I decided to see what adding a moderate amount of buckwheat flour would do. If you’ve read anything about buckwheat, you’ll know that it’s not related to wheat, and is technically not a grain. I replaced 20% of the flour in my usual sourdough with buckwheat, and put the dough through it’s usual production cycle. I stuck with the 80% hydration base, and performed a series of 6 stretch and folds over the course of 4-5 hours after adding the salt and starter to autolysed flour. One thing that gave me concern was that the dough felt weak and wet. While it built up some strength and bulk during the course of folds, it was noticeably less springy than my all white flour doughs. I suspected this was due at least in part due to the lack of gluten in buckwheat, but it may also be that my buckwheat flour was absorbing less water than the bread flour.
Nonethless, I shaped the dough into a batard as usual (albeit with a bit more difficulty given the dough’s lack of strength), and refrigerated it overnight in a banneton. As usual, I cooked it in a covered baker. When I went to uncover the dough after 20 minutes of baking, the differences were immediately apparent. The oven spring was nearly non-existant and the loaf looked disturbingly flat. I suppressed my urge to toss it out and finished the bake.
To my surprise, though considerably less airy than the white flour breads, not all was lost. The texture was decent, and there was a detectable nutty flavor. It wasn’t particularly memorable, but it did add a unique flavor profile and was less bitter than whole wheat. I’m not sure I’d seek out the flour in the future for this purpose, but it certainly wasn’t a waste. In the future, I’d consider trying a 10% buckwheat loaf and/or dropping the hydration to 70-75%.