A Meatier Plant

Even though I'm not a vegetarian, I have dabbled in the world of fake meats through the years. Most of the time, I find the substitutes are a weak imitation of the original and that a plant-based meal that doesn't try to masquerade as something else is a better option. I recently heard about Meati, a company that makes "cuts" of fake meat based on mushroom root protein, which ostensibly mimics the texture of meat protein better than other plant proteins. Apparently, I am not the only one who is curious, since it's been consistently sold out online and not available anywhere locally.

As with many companies with similarly popular products, Meati allows potential customers to sign up for email alerts for their "drops". I did such a signup and was able to snag one of their Variety Bundles. This includes two forms of fake chicken, a chicken breast-like "classic cutlet", and a "crispy cutlet" which is essentially a breaded version of the same thing. There are also two versions of fake steak, a plain "classic steak" and a seasoned version of the same thing.

The Meati Classic Cutlet, a chicken breast mimic. Seasoned and cooked in a skillet, it looks like food.

What's remarkable the Meati products is how few ingredients they contain, especially compared to many other plant-based substitutes. The classic cutlet is almost all mushroom root with a small amount of salt, natural flavor, acacia gum, oat fiber and chickpea flour. The steak is similarly mostly mushroom root with salt, natural flavor, fruit juice, oat fiber, vegetable juice and lycopene. They are relatively lean as well, with only 0.5-1.5 g of fat and 120-130 calories while delivering 15-17g of protein. The crispy cutlet is the most indulgent, with 14g of fat due to its crispy coating. All also have 8g of fiber, well above what you could obtain from real meat.


The Classic Steak is not as convincing a mimic as the chicken, but the taste is reasonable in its own way. The texture needs some work.

The cuts can be cooked thawed or frozen. I tried using both a skillet and an oven, and both methods worked reasonably well. The appearance is passable, though perhaps a bit too perfectly formed to mimic the meat-based alternatives. The texture and taste are clearly different from the meat versions: Meati is quite a bit softer and more friable than a steak or chicken breast, and lack the same chew. It was reminiscent of pulled pork rather than an intact cut of meat. That said, it was a passable experience in a sandwich or a burrito. In this way, it was reminiscent of other attempts like the Impossible Burger. On their own, they are nothing special, but they as reasonable substitutes in a context with other ingredients.

What differentiates Meati are two factors: it's not mimicking ground meat, which makes it more flexible for different dishes, and its nutritional profile is generally superior to the meat it is substituting for. In that sense, it is a bit reminiscent of the Better Bagel. It's not the same as the "real thing", but offers a different culinary experience with unique benefits.

When not eaten alone, Meati’s products work well as swap-in meat replacements.

If Meati can improve the texture, it will go a long way to increasing the appeal of their products. Discovering and sharing new dishes that work well with the current format is another option. I am still working my way through the current stock, but I would be reluctant to order more until they offer more options for customizing the selections. The crispy cutlet does not appeal to me, but it is included in both packs available for ordering. This should come with time. In the interim, I will continue to follow their progress and try my remaining cuts in different dishes.

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